The steps outlined below are not rocket science but are often overlooked or ignored, which leads to a less than ideal joint bond.

Making sure you follow the advice below will guarantee that your PVC pipe, joint bonds are snug secure and leak-proof!

Cutting plastic pipe

Square pipe ends fit snugly into the fittings, allowing plenty of contact area for the solvent cement to work. They also make a smoother interior surface for better water flow. A power miter saw and other special tube cutters guarantee square cuts, but you don't have to buy them.

De-burr the inside

File off the inner burrs with sandpaper. Left in place, burrs can snag hair and other debris, causing clogs.

De-burr the outside

Knock off the outer burrs with sandpaper; the pipe will slip into the fitting easier and you'll get a tighter fit.

Mark the pipe and fitting

Mark the orientation of joints when you dry-fit them. It's a lot easier than trying to adjust the fit while the cement is hardening.

Just swiping the pipe with cement and pushing on the fitting won't ensure a strong joint. You want to make sure you have an even layer of cement over all mating surfaces.

If you're using PVC or CPVC pipe, wipe primer around the pipe and into the fitting to prepare it for the solvent cement. Let it dry about 10 seconds. Then spread an even layer of solvent cement on the same surfaces.

Align the fitting and pipe about a quarter turn from their final orientation. Then twist the fitting a quarter turn as you press it onto the pipe. Twisting the fitting helps spread the solvent cement evenly to ensure a solid joint.

Allow for shrinkage if you dry-fit the pipes

Most novice pipe fitters find it reassuring to cut and assemble a group of pipes and fittings before gluing them together. It's OK to do this as long as you're aware of the pitfalls.

Don't jam the pipe and fitting together too tight. They'll get stuck and can be difficult to get apart. If a fitting does get stuck, just set a block of wood against the lip and pound the fitting loose with a hammer.

Leaving the fittings loose keeps them from getting stuck, but it creates another problem. You can't assume that the final assembly will be the same size as the dry-fit parts. When you apply solvent cement to the pipe and fitting and press them together, you'll lose a little length at each joint. On 1-1/2 in. pipes, this could be as much as 3/8 in. per joint. So keep this in mind if you dry-fit, and allow extra length where fit is crucial.

Another tip is to limit dry fitting to a small group of pipes and fittings. Join this group with solvent cement before moving to the next section.

Match the solvent to the pipe

For a reliable seal, you have to use the solvent that's formulated for the pipe. All of them contain aggressive solvents and adhesives, so beware of drips and spills.

There are three common types of plastic plumbing pipe: PVC, CPVC and ABS.

Each requires a different kind of solvent cement. The white or beige pipes (PVC and CPVC) also require a primer. You don't need a primer with black ABS pipe. Read the label to match the solvent cement to the type of pipe you're using. Avoid universal solvent cements.

Like just about every type of home improvement or construction task, making sure your PVC pipe joints fit well and are snug and leak-proof is pretty simple.

The trick, as with most types of DIY advice, is to make sure you follow it!

To learn more about working with PVC pipe, check out The Handyman.

Featured Image via  The Handyman