A Guide to Bushcraft Hunting Tools

hunter with rifle bushcraft

Whether you are hunting in the bush or facing a survival situation, having the right hunting tool at your disposal is key.

Here are some things to think about.

Gun Considerations

Two huge factors in choosing a weapon for hunting are weight and simplicity of its mechanisms. Weight matters if you’ll be carrying the weapon for long periods, and simplicity of mechanism means fewer problems are likely to occur and maintenance is easier to do.

One thing we need to look at for versatility’s sake is the age of the gun as well as the chamber length and choke. The choke is a reduction in the barrel’s outside diameter that allows the gun to pattern better at distance but does give some restriction on loads, especially hand loads and muzzle loads.

Gun Age

First to the age of the gun: You want something modern enough that it was made to withstand the use of modern powders, not just black powder charges. You also want a good quality steel barrel. Most guns made after 1940 will meet this restriction, and you will be fine with any gun made in the past 50 years that is in sound working order.

Chamber Length

Next you want to look at chamber length. This is the area in which the shell is loaded at the breech. You want this to be a 3″ chamber so it will accept any load you can find or buy to put in the gun. Many modern shells are 3″, and if you have a 2-3/4 ” chamber, such shells will be useless without modification.

Choke

The basic chokes are cylinder, modified, and full. They get progressively smaller from cylinder to full, with modified being the happy medium. Cylinder bore is fine but you will sacrifice accuracy past 20 – 25 yards for sure, while modified will keep a good pattern with a modern shell to about 35 yards. Again the tradeoff for choke is load variation and adaptability.

Barrel Length

Barrel length is a matter of personal preference, but I find that anything over 24″ is as accurate as 30″. Most shots we will take with these guns are short-yardage shots anyway, and added barrel length is added weight.

Rounds

Let’s first speak of store-bought modern rounds and the versatility of that beautiful old SS 12GA. I have a great deal of variation in loads and game I can hunt with this gun with little or no modification to anything

• #8 shot for small birds
• #6 shot for small game
• #4 shot for large waterfowl and turkey
• Slugs or buckshot for larger game

Just this gives me a huge array of animals I can hunt by only carrying a few shells and the gun if I am determined to make my supper from hunted game.

Talking Shot

Let’s talk about shot for a moment. Remember we are measuring shot in volume, so the amount will vary with size. You can buy lead shot in bulk. The best all-round size for functional use is #6 shot, as it will kill birds, most small game, and will take medium animals as well, especially at close range.

The other kind of shot that is worth a look is actual BBs. They are very inexpensive as well as versatile and will be useful for about all game except small fowl. The only issue to remember with steel BBs is they cannot be melted down easily to make round ball or slugs.

Loading the Shot

There is an easy sequence to be used here every time to make a good shell. Set the primed cartridge on end and load a measure of powder, then a wad of wool (this amount will need to be figured as you make shells due to compression; the material is not easily measured for volume). Add an over wad card (cardboard cutout), then a volume of shot.

The final piece to add is an over shot card. At this point the shell should be filled to the top of where it was cut off (this is an adjustment to wad that you will always have to make when reloading a spent shell).

You can now seal the rim of the shell with hot glue to keep the contents in the shell, and you have a usable shotgun shell. Less is more on the hot glue; an electric melting gun makes the job easier than using a lighter to melt the glue stick, although the lighter will work in the field.

Tips and Tricks

• The versatility of this 12GA single-shot shotgun is truly amazing. As inexpensive as a used one is today, this makes it a vital piece of gear for any woodsman.

• A double-barrel break-open is a good option if you just think you must have a follow-up shot and the only main sacrifice there will be weight.

• My go-to company for subcaliber adapters is Short Lane Arms. Short Lane also makes a 209 shotgun primer adapter that makes your 12GA a muzzle loader if you choose. They also sell a retractable or breakdown ramrod that will fit in the haversack for use with the muzzle-loading system.

• For reloading shells, good quality high-brass shells will do better for this in the long run, or you can actually buy full brass 12 hulls online.

• Molds that will make a single round ball as well as ladles for melting lead shot over the fire can be purchased online from stores like Track of the Wolf.

These are just a few considerations when choosing a weapon to use for bush-style hunting.

Other considerations are whether to use a break-down, single shot shotgun or one that uses a clip. What gauge to opt for is also a consideration and should be determined by what you will be hunting.

To learn more about bush hunting and bush hunting tools, please visit Grit.


One Comment;

  1. David Spradlin said:

    In a pinch, you can make a “cut shell” from birdshot and make a “poor mans” slug for hunting larger game. Search for “cut shell” and watch some of the many videos available on the Internet. In a survival situation this would really expand your hunting options with a shotgun if all you had was birdshot or if you ran out of slugs or buckshot.

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